Switzerland: Safe, efficient and stunning

I have driven through Switzerland and am too familiar with the Zürich airport, but I had never visited the country as a tourist. Thus, in the fall of 2024, I spent 12 days travelling around the country.

As I prefer cities to the countryside and trains are my favourite way to travel, I crafted an itinerary visiting 6 cities/towns, all going by rail.

First of all, hats off to the Swiss rail system. Their trains are frequent, clean, no problem getting seats and always on time. Even when I had a 6 minute transfer between trains among Zurich’s 42 platforms, it was doable. I never missed a train and, to save lugging a suitcase up and down the platform stairs ( like in the UK), there are escalators or convenient elevators. Why more train systems cannot be more like Switzerland I don’t know but it was a pleasure.

Even local transport was great. Most cities have a tourist program where if you stay in a hotel overnight, the hotel registers you and you get a tourist card entitling you to free bus and tram transit and reduced entrance charges to museums. Like the trains, the trams were great. Frequent, convenient and easy to use even if you don’t speak any of the official languages ( thank you Google Maps).

I began my trip in Zürich, Switzerland’s largest city and a beautiful place with a lovely old town, three landmark, churches, and lovely views of the Limmat River, which connects Zürich with Lake Zürich. I walked up and down what is considered to be Zürich’s most beautiful street, Augustinergasse, admired the statue of Hedwig, a 13th century woman who assisted all the women on Zürich in repelling an invasion by the Hapsburgs. She stands as a testament to the strength of women everywhere.

Given my sweet tooth, the highlight of my time in Zürich was probably a trip to the Lindt chocolate factory and museum. Opened in 2020, the tour begins with a description of chocolate cultivation, then the history of chocolate and its transport from South and Central America to Europe to the 19th century when Swiss pharmacists developed a process for making smooth chocolate. The best part of the tour was the tastings, and there were two stations where you could have all the chocolate you wanted. I indulged and left fully sated with some chocolate souvenirs:

My next stop was the medieval city of Lucerne, with its iconic 14th century wooden chapel bridge:

I spent a lovely day in Lucerne walking from site to site, first admiring the old town and walking it mediaeval walls, and moving toward it Mournful Lion, a tribute to all those who have fallen in the wars. I admired the Bouracki panorama, a 360° art piece depicting the retreat of 70,000 soldiers into Switzerland during the Franco Prussian war and the aid provided by the neutral Swiss. It’s gigantic and 3-D, so you feel like you are in the painting:

From Lucerne, I took the train to the mountain village of St. Moritz, home of the 1928 and 1948 Winter Olympics and the greatest train rides in the world, the Glacier Express and the Bernina express. Unfortunately, the Glacier express was on vacation while I was there, but the Bernina express was a worthy substitute. Leaving from St. Moritz, the 2 1/2 hour ride to Torino Italy wends its waythrough the Alps beside Emerald Green lakes.

I marvelled at the engineering feats of the railroad builders, including the 360° circle, allowing the train to gain height:

Although the day was foggy, obscuring views of the glaciers and the highest peaks, the clouds could not damp the beauty of the region.

Next stop was Geneva, which I found disappointing. I was met by beggars at the train station, lots of smokers and garbage all around, something I hadn’t encountered before in Switzerland. I went to one of the must-see sights-the Flower Clock-which was being replanted for the fall:

Next up was The United Nations:

I’m sure the heavy security gate was prudent, but it was sad to see it outside a building representing peace.

Next up was the jete d’eau, or water jet, a water fountain in Lake Geneva:

Okay, it’s pretty but doesn’t hold a candle to the dancing fountains in Singapore or the colourful water fountains in Dubai.

After 2 days I took the train to Bern, with its marvellous Old City, a medieval gem filled with arcaded walkways, 15th century working clocks and beautiful views of the River Aare:

I toured the Einstein House, where he had lived between 1902 and 1909 and the Bear Pit, containing some brown bears after which the city is named. But my favourite activity was a “Where’s Waldo” game where I walked around the Old Town trying to locate the 13 fountain heads sporting a medieval character:

I found 11 before giving up.

My last city was Basel. It too has a wonderful medieval Old Town with both a Cathedral and City Hall made from red sandstone. Unfortunately for my photos, a festival was starting the next day and amusement parks were set up out front:

Basel is known as the cultural center of Switzerland and boasts more than 40 museums. However, I eschewed all that culture in favour of a tour of a bakery- Jokob’s Basler Leckerly- which makes leckerlies, an almond and honey biscuit, the traditional way:

We weren’t allowed to try baking, but were able to wrap the goods, an art in and of itself. A fun, and delicious, outing.

And so ended my time in Switzerland. I loved its efficiency, its Alpine scenery and medieval city centers. I was less enthralled with all the smoking and the extremely high food prices.

Up next, a Rhine River cruise.